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Mix and Decant Ezypoxy Rollcoat

By Jack Josephsen

After fielding all sorts of questions, I thought I would just shoot a video of me mixing and decanting Ezypoxy Rollcoat. I share some tips to explain some of the habits I have learned (often the hard way).

Video Transcription:

I'm about to make up a couple of mixes for cut-ins. Let's just have a look at what the temperatures are on the meter...but, I often get asked why do I tie up the chuck on the drill?

If you are methodical and you've set up well, then you probably don't need to, because everything sits flat. But it doesn't take much for that drill to be sitting or to be left at an angle, leaning downhill, so to speak, towards your chuck. Then you end up with the resin running in your chuck, you can't undo the chuck and you've kind of blown your money.

I'm set up to do a small mix for cutting, I'm only going to do 900mL. It's pretty slow-going where I've got to cut in first, so I'm only going to make a smaller amount. When I can make larger amounts, I'll be using the individual jugs, but for the moment, I've set it up so that I have two markings on the jug.

One is the Part A and one is a Part B. I don't tend to rely too much on the numbers on the side as far as remembering what my ratio is. I tend to put the tape there and then there's less chance of me making an error

I like to wear safety glasses, my clear glasses aren't here, so I'm wearing my sunglasses with Jaro safety glass as well. Not the usual, but the lighting is well enough in here that I can do that, so let's get it underway.

This particular product we're using is a dedicated rollcoat, it's tintable, and you use two pigment pots per kit. It makes a 12 litre mix in total, I will use up all the product even though I'm just going to take measured quantities of it as I go. The colour is Koala Grey, which is an Australian Standard colour.

Just a couple of quick points while I'm mixing, you'll see a lot of people will try to hold the bucket on the side, and you can do that, except if you're dealing with a really thixotropic material or a really thick product on a cold day, it's going to want to grab the bucket and fling out. Applying a bit of pressure on the top of the bucket makes sure that it doesn't spin, so that's the first thing.

The other thing that's highly underrated is the ability to mix or to scrape the sides of the bucket. Now, that might be less an issue with a really low viscosity material, but really we know that the bucket has Part A in it. If it's a thixotropic product, meaning the product is quite thick and doesn't want to move, then on the sides of the bucket we're going to have Part A without pigment, firstly, and we want to get that thoroughly mixed, so the idea of scraping sides is the only way to do that.

You'll see that I've also set up with three different spatulas. I have a Part A spatula, a Part B spatula, designated with tape, and a mixed spatula, so I don't end up cross contaminating things.

I have a Part A jug, a Part B jug, so I don't end up cross contaminating things. Apart from that, at the moment, I'm just going to get the mix consistent in here, and then I can start to tap off what I need. With such a small mix, I could just hand mix it, but I will drill mix it to get it nice and consistent, just got to do it at a lower speed. Again, scrape the side, I don't want any unmixed Part A to end up on the floor, or I'll end up with a hot spot, which is all sorts of pain. Now we're ready to go.

Have you got any other tips or comments that you would like to share?

Take Care and keep smiling

Resin Jack

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